Nike Opens Its Archives With Unprecedented Exhibition at the Vitra Design Museum
Welcome to The Director’s Cut, an interactive column featuring fashion, beauty and career advice from RGNN Director and Founder, @isabelevabohrer.
Welcome to the DNA. We don’t cover biology exhibitions at RGNN, so when I say that, I mean the DNA, the Department of Nike Archives. For the first time in the 60-year history of the iconic sports brand, Nike has opened its archives to the public. Case in point: the “Nike: Form Follows Motion” exhibition at the Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein, Germany.
But what’s on view starting tomorrow rewinds all the way back to the 1960s, when founders Bill Bowerman and Phil Knight began working on what we know as Nike, Inc. today. The exhibition chronicles the company’s origins as a track and field brand, made for runners, specifically at the University of Oregon.
The historical facts and anecdotes to be explored here are many. Did you know that Knight and Bowerman, his former University of Oregon coach, founded Blue Ribbon Sports in 1964? And that they created their version of the Onitsuka Tiger in 1967, the Tiger Cortez?
It was only in 1971 that Nike was registered as a company. In fact, at the exhibition, you’ll see the first logos of the Nike Swoosh, designed by Carolyn Davidson in 1972. See for yourself and you’ll notice that at first, they were debating over the use of various “Swooshs” in different formations, until they decided on only one. The original Nike font used by Davidson has been changed various times since then, and the “Just Do It” slogan came later on, too.
It’s a fairytale entrepreneur story much like Steve Jobs’ Apple and his garage; Nike was born in the kitchen and the original waffle iron machine, used to make the first Nike soles, is on display at Vitra, too. Technology has always been at the forefront of the brand; it’s in Nike’s DNA to work directly with runners and athletes in general, to create products that are engineered to their specifications.
And when I say athletes in general, I mean it. Nike has since far transcended the track and field world; in fact, the exhibition would not be complete without an homage to Michael Jordan, a room painted in red to allude to the Chicago Bulls, of course. Lebron James, who signed with Nike in 1984, isn’t missing in the exhibition either.
The uniforms created for the 2024 Paris Olympics, too, are on view, suspended in a novel format – Vitra has taken notes from Nike and is innovating in how to showcase shoes, shorts and tank tops, too.
When walking through the exhibition, one cannot help think about the conservation required when it comes to what others might see as just an old pair of sneakers. As a regular at fashion exhibitions, I see a lot of haute couture. High fashion is worn once, perhaps twice, on most likely on the red carpet. But a pair of sneakers? They’re on the ground, running, for days on end. The fissures and wear on the exhibited archives are more than evident, which makes this exhibition all the more special.
In fact, I was stopped short but this organization chart; on the left, the current Air Force 1. And on the right, all the parts needed to make a new Air Force 1, to make its production more sustainable; it’s not out yet, Nike is working on it.
As with so many mass consumer brands, there is, after all, an ecological footprint to be kept in mind when producing the items. Head on up to the second floor, and you’ll see a book on display. “Who’s Afraid of NikeTown?” reads the title by Friedrich Von Borries, who takes issue with Nike’s perpetual “simulation of a better reality.” The exhibition isn’t trying to hide anything; Nike, as all brands, has its critics and its supporters.
But the supporters are strong and numerous. In fact, in the run-up to the exhibition, the Vitra Design Museum posted an open call for video submissions for fans and followers to send in their Nike stories. “Can I still send in a TikTok video?” I asked Assistant Curator Marcella Hanika. Yes, of course – the call is still open to the public and selected videos are shown at the exhibition. (If you want to participate, send your submissions to communications@design-museum.de).
So here I am now, sitting down to pen this review, and thinking about what my Nike story is. Perhaps I’ll come up with something creative when I go for a run in my Vomeros. “Nike Running – engineered to the exact specifications of world-class runners” is written on the outer sole. I’m not a world-class runner, but perhaps I’ll just do it anyways.
Plan your visit
Vitra Design Museum.
- “Nike: Form Follows Motion.” From September 21, 2024 to May 4, 2025.
- Charles-Eames-Straße 2, 79576 Weil am Rhein, Germany.
- Open daily from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. December 24, 2024: Open from 10.00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m.
- More information and tickets on the official website.
Thank you, Vitra Design Museum and Nike, for inviting us.
Questions or comments? Follow me on IG @isabelevabohrer or TikTok and say hi! See you soon!
